FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Geographical Position The Natural Environment Population and Economy Tourism Towns: Trieste Gorizia Pordenone Udine Geographical Position A region of north-east Italy, bordering with Austria to the north and Yugoslavia to the east and south-east, to the south it lies on the Adriatic and borders with Venetia to the west and south-west. Until 1947, this area was known as Venezia Giulia. At the end of the Second World War, it underwent great changes following the transfer of the Fiume and Pola provinces and of wide parts of the areas of Gorizia and Trieste to Yugoslavia. By the Agreement stipulated in 1954, the `A area' of the Free Territory of Trieste passed to Italian administration, a passage ratified in 1975 by the Treaty of Osimo, which officially recognized the `B area' as part of Yugoslavia.  As regards particular historical events, the problems connected with the new eastern border and its complex ethnical composition, led to Friuli-Venezia Giulia being recognized as an autonomous Province with a special statute. The Natural Environment From a morphological point of view, Friuli-Venezia Giulia can be divided into two parts: a mountainous area to the north (Carnia) and a plain to the south. The mountainous area includes the southern side of the Carnic Alps (Mount Coglians, 2,780 m.) and the western section of the Julian Alps (Jôf di Montasio, 2,754 m.). South of the long Tagliamento-Fella-Resia valley lie the Prealps of Friuli, transversely divided by the Tagliamento river into the Carnic and Julian Prealps. To the south lies the low marly-arenaceous sub-alpine hills and then the wide Friuli plain, divided into high permeable level ground and a stony low impermeable plain separated by a line of springs. The coastline is low to the west, where the lagoons of Merano and Grado open, but highland craggy to the east, where the mountains of the `Triestino' Karst stetch steeply as far as the sea.  The chief river is the Tagliamento, into which flow the waters of the Fella; its last stretch marks the boundary with Venetia. The rivers that rise on the south side of the Prealps, the Livenza, Cellina, Meduna, Arzino, Torre, Natisone and the Iudrio, are smaller. Special mention must be made of the Isonzo and Timavo rivers, of which only the lower course belongs to this region.  There are considerable differences between the climate of the coastline where the sea has a marked influence and that of the inland mountainous areas. While average temperatures fall progressively from the sea towards the north, the precipitations increase up to a maximum of over 3,000 mm. in the prealpine zone, decreasing to lower values (1,500-1,600 mm. annually) in the Carnic and Julian Alps. Nearly everywhere the wettest months are in autumn and spring. The centre of Musi (635 m.) in the Julian Prealps is considered to be the wettest place in Italy, with 3,346 mm. per year. Another climatic feature is the Bora, a strong cold wind which often blows in winter across the eastern part of the Province from north-east. Woods cover 22% of the region and are mainly in Carnia. Up to an approximate altitude of 500 m., there are chestnut and oak trees, followed by beech which, above 1,000 mm, is replaced by conifers, mainly Norway spruce. At roughly 800 m. a low bushy zone (rhododendrons, dwarf pines, junipers) separates the conifer belt from the high pastures. For the purpose of reforestation, large pine woods have been planted along the coast, as at Lignano Sabbiadoro and Belvedere. The flowers of this area are exceptionally beautiful and interesting. Together with typical mountain flowers such as the edelweiss and rock rampion, distinctive indigenous species, such as lilium carniolicum and the attractive Wulfenia carinthiaca grow here. The Karst region is one of the most famous zones in Italy for surface and underground phenomena giving rise to the typical Karst topography (dolinas, pools, furrowed or rutted fields, caves, and the like), with many characteristic indigenous animals and plants. Another typical and almost unpolluted environment is that of the lagoons. The Marano and Grado lagoons, though separate from each other, form a fairly homogeneous stretch of water covering 16,000 hectares, for approximately 32 km. between the Isonzo river to the east and the Tagliamento river to the west. The principal wildlife consists of large flocks of aquatic birds, including mallard, garganey and coot.  Worthy of mention is the Parco Marino di Miramare, near the famous castle of the same name, stretching for approximately thirty hectares in an area particularly suited to marine plants and animal life, and also the barren magredi, on the high Friuli plain, very permeable rough alluvial land, bare except for thin grass providing, at the most, meagre grazing. Population and Economy The population is unevenly distributed over the territory. Mountainous areas with a very low population density contrast with the hilly areas and high plains with a population often higher than the national average. Examples of this are the strip at the foot of the mountains between Udine and Gemona and the lower Pordenone area. The two provinces of Venetia-Giulia - Trieste and Gorizia - have a population density decidedly higher than those of Friuli (Udine and Pordenone). This derives from the fact that post-war treaties reduced the size of the country (in favour of Yugoslavia), thus determining the concentration of population in smaller territories. The precarious economic and social conditions of the mountain areas have led to progressive depopulation, benefiting the richer parts of the plain, though internal movement is clearly a minor phenomenon, compared to the considerable migration abroad or towards the more industrialized Italian regions, which took place particularly at the beginning of this century.  Except for the coastline (Grado, Monfalcone) where the dialect is that of Venetia, and for Trieste which has its own, belonging to the same group, this region uses the Friuli dialect, regarded virtually as a language and similar to Dolomitic Rhaetia-Romanic. There are also some Germanic linguistic minorities (the upper valley of the But torrent, Val Lumiei and upper Val Canale) as well as Slovenian (upper Natisone and some of the Province of Gorizia border areas). The standard of living is above the national average though with remarkable zonal variations. Generally speaking, Venetia Giulia is the richest part of the Region, though characterized by a somewhat stagnant economy. Friuli, on the contrary, even with some depressed areas, is characterized by a certain amount of productive activity linked to the establishment and development of the industrial sector.  As far as production is concerned, agriculture does not play an important role within the regional economy. This is especially due to the fragmentation of land ownership and to the existence of military priorities which prevent rational administration of the territory; the land itself is also not very fertile. Agricultural products typical of the lower Friuli plain are particularly maize and barley. More modest is the production of fruit (apples and pears), sugar beet and vegetables. Quality vine-growing is very significant; vines are cultivated both on the hills and in the plain, providing an excellent range of white wines (Tocai, Picolit, Vini del Collio), and red (Terrano, Cabernet, Merlot) as well as the famous Friuli Grappas. Still fairly relevant, though declining, is cattle and pig breeding (the famous San Daniele hams). Fishing is of some importance.  Though heavily damaged by the tragic and disastrous earthquake in 1976, industry has returned to the rate of development which had already characterized it in the previous years. Light engineering is very important, particularly household appliances (Pordenone), and shipyards (Monfalcone, Trieste). Also important are the furniture, footwear, chemical (Torviscosa, Monfalcone, Trieste), petrochemical (Trieste), textile, paper and food (distilleries, breweries) sectors. Underground resources (lead mines at Cave di Predil) are insignificant but thermoelectrical power output is high.  As far as the service industries are concerned, these are concentrated in the chief centres. The most important are linked with the Port of Trieste (transport, insurance, shipping, banking and finance).  The tourist traffic is attracted to a few well-known beach resorts.  The communications network is well developed as a result of the railway link connecting Udine with the Italo-Austrian Tarvisio Pass and the final stretch of the Turin-Trieste motorway, from which the very modern Tarvisio extension branches off at Palmanova. The region is served by the Ronchi dei Legionari airport near Monfalcone. Tourism An ideal itinerary can begin at Cividale del Friuli, the ancient Forum Julii founded by Julius Caesar, from which Friuli took its name. The Palazzo Comunale (14th-15th century) deserves a visit, as does the Gothic-Renaissance Duomo (15th-16th century) with works of art including a valuable gold and silver altar-piece (13th century), and the nearby Museo Cristiano (Christian museum) with the Battistero di Callisto (baptistry) and the Ratchis altar (both 18th century), masterpieces of high medieval art. Also important are: the National Archeological Museum, Longobard relics), Tempietto Longobardo (8th-9th century), of architectural and pictorial-decorative interest. To the south, past the hilly belt of Collio, famous for its wines, lies Gradisca d'Isonzo (Duomo with a beautiful Baroque façade), near an area full of historical remains from the First World War: trenches, passageways fortifications and galleries hewn from the rock, places that bring back dramatic memories of a war fought at close quarters, found too in the Monte San Michele area (interesting war museum).  The Sacrario Militare di Redipuglia, a few kilometres farther south, deserves a visit. This monumental construction with flights of steps, the burial place, of a hundred thousand men who died, lies on the slopes of Monte Sei Busi.  Turning towards Trieste, one comes to the tormented Karst area, full of caves, chasms, dolinas and rough wild valleys. Not to be missed is a visit to S. Giovanni al Timavo, near the point at which the river of the same name reappears after flowing for  approximately 40 km underground. Near Trieste is the Grotta Gigante, an immense cave rich in concretions of remarkable beauty. At the extreme eastern tip of Venetia Giulia lies Muggia, and its beautiful Duomo (13th-15th century) with a Gothic-Venetian façade, Palazzo dei Rettori (15th century) and the Church of S. Francesco, Gothic (15th century).  Another interesting itinerary, totally in Friuli, starts at Aquileia a very ancient town near the Grado Lagoon. Of great interest is its Basilica (11th century), built in Romanesque style over paleochristian constructions. Inside are three aisles with important, 4th century, mosaic floors, medieval frescoes and the excavation crypt, with remarkable remains from Roman times (a 1st, century house) and paleochristian basilicas.  Other Roman ruins lie around the Foro Romano and Grandi Terme as well as at the national and paleochristian archeological museums. To the north lies Palmanova, a fortified town built by Venice in 1593, to a polygonal-shape plan, in the form of a star, surrounded by ramparts and a deep moat; inside, the town has a radial form starting from a large hexagonal square. Proceeding west, one reaches Passariano, famous for the stately Villa Manin (17th to 18th century), housing a school of restoration. Following the course of the Tagliamento river, one comes to Spilimbergo with a Gothic Duomo (13th-14th century) with beautiful frescoes (14th century) and the monumental castle complex (15th to 18th century).  Of the mountain holiday resorts in the northern part, the most important are Sauris (Val Lumiei), Navascletto (at the foot of Mount Zoncolan, 1,740 m.), Pontebba (at the mouth of Val Canale, with the ski resort of Studena Alta), and again in Val Canale, Camporosso and Tarvisio, near the beautiful Fusine regional park. The Carnic resorts should not be forgotten: Forni  Avoltri, Forni di Sopra and Ampezzo, while among the more recently developed tourist resorts are Sella Nevea, near Passo del Predil, and Piancavallo, above Aviano, in the Province of Pordenone.  Internationally famous seaside resorts are Lignano Sabbiadoro, and Grado which combines the lagoon with the artistic interest of its monuments (Basilica di S. Eufemia, 6th century, with mosaic flooring, adjacent baptistry, small Basilica delle Grazie (4th-6th century). Resorts on the Trieste coastline are Duino, Sistiana, Barcola and Grignano with the castle of Miramare set in a luxurious park, and built as a residence in the middle of last century by Archduke Maximilian of Hapsburg; in the waters nearby is the Miramare Marine Park. TOWNS Trieste (FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA) Chief town of the region, Trieste is situated on the gulf of the same name near the first ramifications of the Carso Triestino (Karst); its Province, consisting of only six municipalities, is the smallest in Italy.  Originally a settlement of the Illyrian and Carnic peoples, the Romans made it into a colony in 33 BC., and it gradually acquired importance as a commercial centre, especially under Trajan. After the fall of the Western Empire, it was ruled first by the Goths and then by the Byzantines and Lombards. After Frankish domination, it was ruled by Bishops and later (13th century) it became a municipality and was often aided by the Dukes of Austria in its frequent struggles with Venice. In 1469 Trieste was conquered by Frederick III. Except for the short Venetian period in 1509 and then the Napoleonic, it shared the fortunes of the ruling House of Austria until unification with the Kingdom of Italy in 1918. After the Second World War, Trieste was administered by the Allies until 1954, when it returned to Italy, though deprived of much of its hinterland. Till the 18th century, the town was surrounded by walls. The centre was Colle di S. Giusto and gradually expanded beyond these limits after 1719, when by imperial decree, the town became a free port, assuming the role of main seaport of the Austrian Empire. After this initial development, characterized by an orthogonal structure, final growth took place inthe second half of last century, when it acquired the 19th century appearance it still has today.  Monuments: Cathedral of S. Giusto, symbol of the town, consisting of two Romanesque basilicas joined together in the fourteenth century, the castle (14th-17th century), Roman theatre (2nd century AD.) and the 19th century buildings of Piazza della Borsa and Piazza dell×Unità d×Italia, the churches of S. Silvestro (11th century, Romanesque) and S. Maria Maggiore (17th century, Baroque), the small church of S. Michele del Carnale (15th century, Gothic). Reminders of the old days are the characteristic cafés and the French quarter.  The port still plays an important role in the town's economy and is one of the largest in Italy. Activities linked to commerce (shipping, insurance companies and banks) are important. The ship-building, petrochemicals, metalworking, steel, paper, pharmaceutical and foodstuff industries are all active.  Events: Concert and theatre season, Festival of operetta (July-August), International Trades Fair (June) Sons et lumières, Miramare (summer), Science fiction film festival (August).  Famous People: Guglielmo Oberdan (patriot, 1858-1882), Scipio Slataper (writer and patriot, 1888-1915), Italo Svevo (writer, 1861-1928), Umberto Saba (poet, 1883-1957), Enrico Ernesto Nordio (architect, 1851-1923), Antonio De Giuliani (philosopher, 1755-1835), Gianni Stuparich (writer, 1891-1961).  Cultural Institutions: University, G. Tartini Conservatory, Teatro Verdi, Callerio Foundation, the Institute for the Study of Transport, Tranquilli Foundation, Union of Slovenic Cultural Clubs, many museums, including the History and Art Museum with the Orto lapidario (archeological collections), Revoltella Museum (modern sculpture and painting), Museo del Mare, Museo Sartorio (ancient pottery and china, 18th and 19th century paintings), Natural History Museum, Museo di Storia Patria, the Historical Museum of Miramare Castle, the Insurance in History Exhibition, the Ethnographical museum.  In the Province: Muggia (folklore, July-August), Duino-Aurisina (seaside resort), Grignano (Miramare, castle with park), Monrupino (Casa Carsica). Gorizia (FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA) This town is situated on the left side of the Isonzo River, 84 m. above sea level near the Yugoslav border, beyond which lies Nova Gorica.  Of medieval origin, it was the seat of a powerful county which included part of Friuli, Istria, Carniola and Tyrol. In the 15th century, when the family of the Counts of Gorizia died out, it was the object of dispute between Venice and the Austrian Empire, remaining however within the Imperial dominions, except for brief periods. Following the Great War, it became part of the Kingdom of Italy; after the Second World War it was placed under Allied administration until, in 1947, it returned definitively to Italy, though deprived of most of its eastern suburbs and a large part of the Province which passed to Yugoslavia.  Monuments: Castle (of medieval origin) situated on the top of a hill and surrounded by 6th century walls, inside which lay the oldest part of the town known as Borgo Castello; the church of S. Spirito (14th century, Gothic), church of S. Ignazio (17th-18th century, Baroque with a rich interior), Duomo (originally 16th century, but frequently altered, 15th century frescoes), Palazzo Attems (18th century, Baroque). Nearby is the Sacrario Militare of Oslavia, the burial place of over 57,000 soldiers.  As regards the economy, the service sector is most important, especially in relation to commerce with nearby Yugoslavia and public administration. The industrial sector has been very active since the end of the Second World War, and includes textiles, engineering, chemicals, paper, building materials, furniture and food, manufacturers. The agricultural market also has a certain importance.  Events: Opera Season, exhibition-competition of regional sparkling and other wines (November). Trade exhibition (spring), International singing and violin competition (September).  Famous People: Giuseppe Tominz (artist, 1790-1866), Francesco Caucig (artist, 1762-1828), Graziadio Isaia Ascoli (philologist 1829-1907).  Cultural Institutions: Museo di Storia ed Arte (art and history with archeological section), Museo di Storia Naturale ed Orto Botanico (natural history and plants), Gallery of Contemporary Art, Teatro Verdi, Museo di Palazzo Attems (museum).  In the Province: Monfalcone (industry and freight port, Speleo-Paleontological museum), Grado (holiday resort), Cormons, Gradisca d'Isonzo (local wines with annual exhibition), Redipuglia (War Memorial, Cemetery and war museum). Pordenone (FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA) This town lies 24 m. above sea level, to the right of the Moncello torrent, on the western side of the Friuli plain.  It was a Roman centre with the name of Portus Naonis, though it attained no great importance. Subsequently granted in feud to various overlords in Medieval times, it came under Austrian rule in 1278. From 1508 on Pordenone was ruled by Venice, sharing Venetian fortunes until 1797, the year in which it passed to the Hapsburgs who held it, apart from the brief Napoleonic period, until 1866 when it was united with the Kingdom of Italy. It has been chief town of the Province since 1968.  In the oldest part of the town, which until the last century was surrounded by walls, stand the principal Monuments: along Corso Vittorio Emanuele lie many buildings with porticos of varying dates, including Palazzo Tinti (18th century), Palazzo Gregoris (18th century), Palazzo Policreti (16th century), Palazzo Comunale (13th to 14th century, Gothic building) with Torre dell'Orologio (16th century), Duomo (15th century, late Gothic) with bell tower (79 m., Romanesque-Gothic), Church of S. Maria degli Angeli (14th century).  This is the main industrial town in Friuli. There are many companies of all sizes in the electromechanical (household appliances), engineering, textile, paper, ceramics (bathroom suites), chemical, furniture and food industries. Pordenone is also an important commercial centre especially for agricultural produce from the surrounding countryside (wines, cereals, vegetables, fruit).  Events: International Trades Fair (September), Regional Craftwork Salon (December), Radioham Fair (April).  Famous People: Giovanni Antonio Sacchiense called `il Pordenone' (artist, 1484-1559), Odorico Matiussi (explorer, 1236-1331).  Cultural Institutions: Civic library, Civic Museum (art gallery), Natural History Museum, Archeological Museum.  In the Province: Sacile (interesting historical centre and 15th century Duomo), Cordenons, Spilimbergo, Maniago (cutlery manufacture), San Vito al Tagliamento (textile industry, Museum of peasant life), Piancavallo (ski resort), Sesto al Reghena (museum of the Abbey of S. Maria in Sylvis). Udine (FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA) The town is situated 113 m. above sea level at the foot of a hill dominated by the castle, on the wide alluvial plain of the Tagliamento river.  Despite its probable Roman origin, it was thought to be founded in 983 (document of Emperor Otto). The Patriarchs of Aquileia had their seat here after 1238 on. Often at war with Cividale and Venice, it was conquered by the latter in 1420 and shared its fortunes till the Napoleonic era (1797). After the Congress of Vienna it became a Hapsburg dominion until 1866 when, following the 3rd War of Independence, it was united with Italy.  Monuments: in the 16th-century Piazza della Libertà, at the foot of the castle, is Palazzo del Comune (15th century GothicVenetian style), Porticato di S. Giovanni, an elegant Renaissance loggia (16th century), Torre dell'Orologio (16th century clock tower); not far away stands the Duomo (14th century, restructured in the 18th century, with a rich interior), with the adjacent Oratorio della Purita (18th century, paintings by Tiepolo), church of S. Maria del Castello (12th-13th century with 13th century frescoes), Palazzo Arcivescovile (16th-18th century).  An important junction for both road and rail communications (with links to Yugoslavia and Austria), Udine is a busy centre for commercial activities and freight distribution. The still expanding industrial sector, includes the steel industry, engineering, textiles, paper, food (breweries) and furniture.  Events: International Chair Salon (May), Triennale della Medaglia antica (ancient medals), Festa di S. Caterina (end of November), Festa di S. Valentino.  Famous People: Giovanni Ricamatori (known as Giovanni da Udine, artist, 1487-1564), Bonaldo Stringer (economist, 1854-1930), Carlo Caneva (general, 1845-1922), Giovanni Marinelli (geographer, 1846-1900), Olinto Marinelli (army officer and geographer, 1874-1926).  Cultural Institutions: , Science, Letters and Arts Academy, Friuli Museum of Folkloristic Peasant Traditions and Art, Natural History Museum, Civic Museum (archeology) and Gallery of Ancient and Modern Art (works by Carpaccio, Tiepolo, Piazzetta, Caravaggio) at the Castle.  In the Province: Aquileia (Archeological museum, Paleochristian Museum), Cividale del Friuli (National Archeological Museum), Codroipo, Arta Terme (spa), Lignano Sabbiadoro (beach resort), Tolmezzo (Carnic Museum of Popular Arts).